A star is born in Estrellon, Tory Miller's highly-anticipated fourth Madison restaurant. Meaning "star" in Spanish, the tapas-inspired menu pulls from the James Beard Award-winning chef's love for Spain.
This week Miller and crew kept busy as they launched a soft opening for friends and family. However, now the public can dine in the 6,000 square foot space in the brand-new Ovation building near Johnson and State Street.
In the constellation of Tory Miller's eateries, Estrellon feels more sophisticated than Graze but less formal than L'Etoile. It seems like Sujeo's big sister - both located within luxury apartments near downtown and both inspired by food from other countries, then re-worked to Miller's liking.
Miller brings Spain to Madison while keeping an assemblage of Wisconsin food favorites. Try the squash blossoms made with cheese curds.
Miller does paella his way, without a Spanish mother sauce but with plenty of Spanish flare. The pans serve two people and range from vegetarian to rabbit to Iberian chorizo.
Tory tip: Eat a section of the legs first, then peel the shrimp from the body. (Yes, eat the legs.) Then, suck out the head. It's the best part, he says.
Some items were so fresh out of Miller's mind that they hadn't actually been placed on the menu Thursday. We all thoroughly enjoyed something with "dragon tongue" made with green beans -- it is an absolute must try.
Bottom line: Estrellon shines bright. Come hungry and bring friends.